Posted 8th May 2001

A GE Coffee - Not Yet, Not Ever Much coffee (the most traded single product after oil) already has an ugly story behind its production and GE coffee will undermine even further the income to small coffee farmers. The humble coffee bean has become the most favoured source of the essential ingredient of the current dominant international fad, caffeine culture. In the story below we see how what goes around comes around. The `Espresso', like double entry accounting and the first factory, came out of Italy, now the modern economic frankenstein called the global economy is coming home to Italy, Starbucks Rome!

The shadow of all economic success stories to date has been long, and the Cafe explosion is no exception. The producers of the coffee bean, the soil and people of Africa, South America, Melanesia, etc are kept in servitude via low prices for their product while the retailers make billions of, usually, dollars. Now the small coffee farmer has to contend with GE - when will this madness stop? Probably when people start making buying decisions on other than price and start to consider ethics. A UK development charity says the prospect of genetically-modified (GM) coffee threatens poor farmers with ruin. The charity, ActionAid, says the new coffee would offer no significant benefits to coffee drinkers.

The technology, being developed by a Hawaii-based company, works by making all the coffee berries ripen at the same time. This would cut labour costs and, ActionAid says, force small farmers out of the market. A report by the charity, Robbing Coffee's Cradle - GM coffee and its threat to poor farmers, says 70% of all coffee is grown by smallholder farmers. They depend on the crop for all or part of their livelihood, and ActionAid fears they could not survive the GM plants' introduction, which lies some years ahead. Ethiopia depends on traditional coffee production for almost 70% of its export earnings. The Ethiopian delegate to the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation is Dr Tewolde Egziabler. "It's a shift from a labour-intensive to a capital-intensive system, from small farmers to large farmers." INDEPENDENT (London)17 May 2001

Lets get specific:

The coffee grower: Tatu Museyni
* Name: Tatu Museyni
* Nationality: Tanzanian
* Age: 37
* Dependents: Six children, aged between 3 and 17
* Residence: Mud hut with corrugated iron roof. No running water or
electricity
* Income: $45 per year

For Tatu Museyni, the plunge in the price she is paid for her coffee crop grown in the lush foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro has had two simple effects: "My children don't go to school and we starve." A widow, she relies on the income from her 30 coffee trees in the village of Kishimundu, north Tanzania. She has little time for the far-off machinations of the international coffee market other than to note with incomprehension and despair that they have cut the money she receives in half in less than a year. Impoverished growers in Kishimundu and the surrounding communities now receive $0.28 for every pound of Arabica beans they produce compared to an already meagre $0.60 paid last year.

The result is that Tatu, who lost her husband three years ago and struggles to maintain her quarter-acre smallholding, has seen what she earns from her main cash crop fall from $19.50 to $9.31. This is her reward for working 12 hours a day and travelling up to 14 miles to collect water and provisions. On such an income, the battle to pay the $21 annual fee needed to send her two daughters Angera, 15, and 13-year-old Mary to the village school becomes impossible. She said: "Education is very important. It will help my children to have a better life. But now it is difficult to pay. Sometimes my children are chased out of school because I can't pay." The mother, whose dead husband's family refuse to give her financial help because of a land dispute, has abandoned plans to send her third child, Isaiah, nine, to the school. Instead, she is considering selling her pig, her "savings" in north Tanzania's agrarian economy, to buy her two daughters some extra time at school.

The coffee tycoon: Howard Schultz

* Name: Howard Schultz
* Nationality: American
* Age: 47
* Dependents: Wife Sheri and two children, Jordan and Addison
* Residence: A large house overlooking Lake Washington, in the exclusive
Madison Park district of Seattle
* Income: $2.1m (1.5m) in 2000, not including share holdings and option
schemes

Coffee has been very good to Howard Schultz, the chairman and chief global strategist of Starbucks. The precocious kid from Brooklyn is now overlord of a worldwide business empire that has turned into a true cultural phenomenon: the chain-style coffee shop where no latte is too grande. Starbucks has more than 4,000 branches worldwide, with an average of three more opening every day. About 2,700 outlets are in the United States and more than 100 in the United Kingdom. There are even plans to bring Starbucks to Italy. Ever since he talked his way into the management of Starbucks in 1982 (then a bean-selling operation in Seattle), turned it into a retail outfit and eventually bought the whole enterprise, he has been driven by an almost missionary zeal to bring his version of the Italian coffee experience to a worldwide audience. The corporate culture at Starbucks is, like Schultz, easy-going and concerned with a sense of community.

Staff are well paid and enjoy generous benefit packages. However, there has been criticism by anti-globalisation protesters of Starbucks' coffee-buying practices and identikit outlets. Schultz's response has been typical: hurt indignation and an anxiety to make amends. Starbucks now sells Fair Trade Certified beans in 2,300 of its outlets (but does not yet use them in the coffee it brews for its customers). Schultz has just bought himself a $200m (140m) controlling stake in the Seattle SuperSonics basketball team. For every Schultz there's a million Museyni ... that's called global economics, do you buy it?1